For the past month fashion weeks have been occurring one after another, with thousands of photos to accompany. A heard of photographers stalk editors, celebrities, models and “street style outside of these shows and within everyone is on their phone, ready to Instagram every moment.
Cathy Horyn, one of the most prominent fashion critics around, speaks to Alber Albaz of the foundational couturier house Lanvin about mobile fashion’s effect on clothing. Horyn writes about the struggle he faces between “the human touch” and the advancements of technology, as fashion is primarily digital today from marketing to shopping. The main concern modern designers must face is the flattening of garments, stripping them of their innate aura, as demonstrated through touch, locking them within the image presented through a phone or computer screen for the sake of “mobile fashion.” As a solution, Horyn quotes Karl Lagerfled stating, “There’s no history. What I like is to do – not the fact that I did,” shifting the focus from archiving to constant reinvention.
The reason why I bring Horyn’ article into the discussion is two-fold: for one, I want to focus on why the “rich” image Steyerl defines should be considered lower in the hierarchy than the “poor” image and the second is to ask why do we even chase having a “rich” image?
Steyerl speaks of the “rich image” and the want to attain something clearer and sharper, which holds more information (for example, RAW photographs are comprised of whatever information the digital camera receives during the moment of the shutter’s opening, creating a larger file), in contrast to the poor image, which possesses anonymity of the creator and quick travel due to their compression.
But, to me, the only reason why the “rich” image would be considered on the top tiers of the hierarchy would be due to the literal, data richness of the image. The fact that it tries to recreate reality automatically lessens its value, for it will never completely mimic the aura Albez and Benjamin speak about due to attempt to recreate or capture reality. The poor image deserves a higher rank because it embraces its “flaws,” like lacking authorship and being compressed. By embracing “flatness,” its multiplicity reveals its value and can almost lead to the digital version of its aura. It creates an image which cannot be pinned down and defined, gives it plurality in meaning and its specific location, which could be considered its lack of permanence. The poor image can’t really lack anything because its abstracted; its aura lies in its flexibility and the fact that, like Barthes’ starred text, there’s an openness to its meaning.
So why should we look to the rich image as something with more value? To me, it’s just a framed, flattened version of reality, which can never mimic what we understand to be real. Reality, from my understanding, doesn’t lack a sense, whereas the rich image will also lack at least one sense, predominately touch, which is ever-linked to being human. The poor image doesn’t attempt to hide this lack of senses, but embraces it.
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In response to the Abu Ghraib images shown today in class, I want to reflect on the idea of poor image further and introduce Baudrillard’s essay War Porn. First, I take issue to viewing these images in general, from an ethical standpoint, due to lack of consent and subject matter. Viewing them is a violation of the subject within the images, giving the viewer illegitimate consent to a relationship between the subject within the photo and him- or her- self. The relationship, especially from these photos, is one of a victim, not human or individuals, to a perpetrator of violence. As Baudrillard states, “they are inflicted with something worse than death…Radical shamelessness, the dishonor of nudity, the tearing of any veil.” They’re stripped of their humanity by the guards due to the torture and the archiving of the events through photography. Viewing the images only draws attention to the spectacle, making the violence and humiliation relived and revived.
Second, returning back to Steyerl’s argument, the concept of the poor image also adds to my issue with looking at these images. Their quality is pixelated, from a lesser quality phone, and a bit overexposed due to flash in some instances. Although I think the poor quality image is something that should be of higher value than the “rich” image, these photos demonstrate my reasoning as to why the former is of more importance than the latter. The poor image distances itself from reality, separating the viewer further from the actual, real-life event that occurred. The Abu Ghraib photos’ quality is problematic in our understanding of the reality of the situation; their poor quality lead us to distance ourselves from the actual event. The longer we linger on these images, the more pronounced the abstraction and our connection to them becomes less and less realistic. “The degrading images of something that is the opposite of an event, a non-event of an obscene banality, the degrading, atrocious but banal, not only of the victims, but of the amateur scriptwriters of this parody of violence.” The subjects in them, both prisoner and guard, become part of a “infantile reality-show, in a desperate simulacrum of power.”